Erich’s Journal – Leg 19 –San Martin de los Andes, Nuequen, Argentina to Esquel, Chebut, Argentina – March 26, to April 01, 2002 – 7 Days

Tuesday, March 26, 2002 – Day 285 – Hotel -- San Martin de los Andes, Nuequén, Argentina – cycled 75 miles / 120 km (see Neuquen / Rio Negro / Chebut Map)

The morning was just incredible (not to mention incredibly cold). As I finished the climb to the top of Tromén Pass, Volcán Lanin came into full view. Volcán Lanin was awesome as the road over the pass came right past its base. To think that yesterday I could not even see it due to the cloud cover and the thick trees on the Chilean side.

There were some odd looking trees also at the top, so drastically different from evergreen seen in North America. They looked like deformed pine trees, shaped, I am sure, by the weather. (See photos 2125, 2126, 2127, 2128, 2129, 2130, 2131, 2132, 2133, 2134, 2135, 2136, and 2137)

As I passed over to the Argentinean side, the wind picked up some. Combined with the cold temperatures, it was piercing. It was enough for me to notice that I need some better gloves and covering for my feet. The trees, which were thick and lush on the Chilean side, were now becoming shrubs on the Argentinean side. These trees looked like their tops had been torn off. Perhaps the wind over time had sheared the tops of these trees.

As I kept going down the Argentinean side of the pass, the land became more and more treeless. It looked a lot like western Wyoming, with rolling hills and golden grassland. Here there were many large acre ranches or fundos. The occasional tree farm with pines growing in rows would pass along the roadside and help block the wind. The dirt road gently sloped down, which made the riding relatively quick for me. I still had a slick tire on my front wheel and with the weight of my panniers, keeping a balance on the uneven dirt road made for a difficult ride from time to time. Eventually I came to pavement. (See photos 2138, 2139, 2140, 2141, and 2142)

A few miles later, I came across the town of Junin de los Andes, an agricultural town along a stream in the open terrain. The people here are very fair skinned. I seem to be a spectacle, with my new and shiny bike clothes as I pass by schoolchildren as well as adults in this town. Again, I am a topic of discussion. (See photo 2143)

It was getting late and I wanted to stop, but I had no Argentinean Pesos, nor was there a bank in this small town. I sense the route that I crossed is not a typical one with services that accommodate travelers who need to exchange money. There were plenty of hotels but no way for me to pay for it except with dollars, of which I was not sure would be accepted. I had to press on to the resort town of San Martin de los Andes, about 27 miles further. The road would cut back west into the Andes, so I would have to climb back up to the mountains. It would be dark in two and a half hours.

I went for it. The winds were right, as was my attitude. I made the 27 miles in two hours. I found the ATM that I needed rather quickly. There was a man who was using another ATM right next to the one I was using. I asked him about the exchange rate for dollars to pesos and he seemed to think that it was close to one to three.

My next step was to find a hotel. The guidebook was not much help other than it said that this was one of the most expensive towns in Argentina. It looked much like a smaller version of Whistler or Telluride, as it was nestled in a valley right next to a lake, which looked like it, belonged in Switzerland rather than South America.

There was a tourist information office in the town plaza, which had prices for all the hotels in town. I first asked for budget accommodations. The ones the attendant pointed out came to about $3 - $5 US. I could not believe what I was hearing. I inquired about accommodations that are more expensive. She gave me a list of hotels that ranged from $10 - $15 US. The hotel I chose was very nice. It cost me about $9.50. It included a queen size bed, private bathroom, cable TV, and breakfast. What a deal. Later I ate dinner, which included a pizza and a liter of beer. This cost me $3.50. I bought enough groceries for lunch, dinner and breakfast for my next couple of days on the road. This came to $4.00. (See photo 2144 and 2145)

Wednesday, March 27, 2002 – Day 286 – Primitive Camp – near Villa La Angostura, Nuequén, Argentina – cycled 42 miles / 67 km

I was amazed. Argentina, which I had anticipated to be the most expensive country that I would travel to, has become one of the cheapest. The facilities and accommodations that I have seen so far have been equal to that of Canada and the US. This is truly amazing. I could easily get by on less than $20 per day.

The next morning I had slept in. With the heavy day of riding the day before, it was tough getting back on the road. I almost stayed, taking a day off, but figured I could probably use the day later when the weather goes bad.

After hitting three different bike stores to buy some more cold weather gear and stopping to have an early lunch, I was on my way in the early afternoon.

I traveled south on a road that is known as “The Seven Lakes Road.” It passes Lago Lacar on the west end of town, climbing nearly 2000 feet within about 10 miles. It then meanders through some of the most beautiful wooded areas I have seen since the California Redwoods. It passes by a series of finger lakes, which fiord type mountains rise up around each of these lakes. They are connected by a series of streams with drop down from higher mountains in the Andes. It is along these streams that the Seven Lakes Road pass through the mountains. (See photos 2146, 2147, 2148, 2149, 2150, 2151, 2152, 2153, 2154, 2155, and 2156)

The road reduced to gravel, then to dirt within the next 30 miles. All of the land that I saw today was on the Parque Nacional Lanin and on Parque Argentino Nahuel Huapi, with the occasional small farm along the road. (See photo 2157)

Toward the end of my ride, I ran into Ron and Laura Lee from Vancouver, British Columbia. They had started in Ushuaia in mid January along with many others. They had indicated that I would probably run across more people in the next few days. They are all trying to stay a few steps ahead of the winter, whereas I seem to heading right into it. We visited for nearly an hour, giving each other route advisories and studying one another’s gear. It is amazing how similar our stories and habits are. (See photo 2158)

Shortly afterward I found a spot off the road about 200 yards to camp. It had been raining throughout most of the day so I staked the tent down taut to prepare for a cold wet night.

I worked on the bike, cleaning the chain with gas. There was plenty of wash water with the nearby streams. I cooked in the dark, not staying up much later due to the cold. A warm sleeping bag was where I wanted to be.

Thursday, March 28, 2002 – Day287 – Hotel -- San Carlos de Bariloche, Rio Negro, Argentina – cycled 76 miles / 123 km

Friday, March 29, 2002 – Day 288 – Hotel -- San Carlos de Bariloche, Rio Negro, Argentina – Rest Day

I am currently in the Chocolate City. Bariloche, another tourist trap in Argentina, is known for its chocolate. I have never seen so many different varieties and packaging of chocolate. I have been indulging in ice cream as well. Every other store sells very rich ice cream of a huge variety of flavors. (See photos 2170, 2171, 2172, 2173, 2174, 2175, 2176, 2177, 2178, 2179, 2180, 2181, 2182, 2183, and 2184)

I had a long day of biking. It took me 4 hours to travel the 24 miles to pavement on the Seven Lakes Road. It took me another 4 hours to travel the next 52 miles to Bariloche. It was another beautiful riding day. I stopped often to take pictures and enjoy the sights. (See photos 2159, 2160, 2161, 2162, 2163, 2164, 2165, 2166, 2167, 2168 and 2169)

A big thing I noticed with the drivers here in Argentina is that they do not like to use their horns – similar to North Americans. In all other Latin American countries, excluding Chile, they like to lay on their horns every opportunity they get – to say ‘hi’, to let me know they are behind me, to let me know they are ahead of me, to let me know they are passing me, to let me know they are having a bad day, to let me know they are having a good day. In Argentina, it is a pleasure not to know all those things, for no one honks.

When I arrived in Bariloche, I discovered difficulty in finding a hotel. I studied the South American Handbook, made my top choices and began. The first place I went, they turned me away, rudely. I could not figure it out. The hotel clerk seemed a bit uncomfortable with my appearance (my bike clothes and helmet). I checked another. They were also full. I had to go to seven hotels before I found one that had room for me for two days. I had never had a problem ever on this trip finding a hotel with room. Nine out of ten times, I was the only room occupied in the place. It was then I discovered it was approaching Easter weekend. Apparently, it is the last vacation weekend for many until next summer.

This city of about 100,000 is quite beautiful. It has a rather Swiss village kind of feel to it. It is situated on the south side of Lago Nahuel Huapi, the lake that I spent a majority of the day cycling around.

I am taking a day off. If all works well, I will have three more days off before I meet Marc in El Califate, about 1100 miles and 23 days from now.

I have spent a significant amount of the day just walking around and looking at the people. The culture, manner, and appearance of the people here is so North American, it is unbelievable. I am enjoying this.

When I started the trip with Brian, I had 1000 business cards made. On them was the BikeAmericas website address. Of the ones given out, most went either in the US or Canada. Since I hit Latin America, very few have been given out, mainly because most Latin Americans did not use the internet.

I have given out more cards in the past two days than at any other time south of the US-Mexico border. I am being stopped frequently and asked if I could be in a picture. Again, I am a novelty, in their country.

Many people here speak English. The first instinct for many is to speak German to me. Then when I reply in Spanish that I do not speak German, they speak to me in English. Then when I hand them the card with “Erich Kuball” written on it, they are confused again with the German name.

I cannot stress enough how beautiful it has been during the past week. It is one of the highlights of the entire trip. If winter were not setting in, I would definitely take more time.

Saturday, March 30, 2002 – Day 289 – Hotel -- El Bolson, Rio Negro, Argentina – cycled 79 miles / 127 km

It was as though summer had come again. There were no rain clouds in sight today, just beautiful blue skies with the occasional cloud drifting by. Although a little cool, but by noon I was wearing bike shorts again.

The ride today was not at all like the ride during the prior 3 days. There are not as many fiord type lakes, tall trees, and babbling brooks. Although mountainous, the trees became shorter and shrubbier along the way. The autumn colors are getting better and better. (See photos 2185, 2186, 2187, 2188, 2189, 2190, 2191, 2192, 2193, and 2194)

I rode from Bariloche to El Bolson, about 79 miles. Did not anticipate going that far, but again, the conditions were right and I was in the groove. I had planned to camp, but the terrain was not as interesting to me in the afternoon and I thought a nice bed would be better to sleep on. The last 14 miles were all downhill too, which made the decision easier to come by. (See photo 2195)

Again, though, finding a room in El Bolson was not an easy task. I spent over an hour looking. There had been a parade finishing when I got there. It looked like there was a big barbeque in the main park. As I finally made the decision to bike south and look for a campground, I found a residencial on the way out of town.

Perhaps it was my appearance, but the host tried to sell me a bunk bed in a dormitory for $8 pesos. She then mentioned she had a private room with a double bed for $22 pesos. This is $3 US vs. $8. Needless to say, I spent the extra $5.

As Esquel, the next city of significant size, is well over 100 miles away, I will be camping tomorrow night.

Sunday, March 31, 2002 – Day 290 -- Primitive Camp -- near Leleque, Chubut, Argentina – cycled 53 miles / 85 km

It was a numbingly cold morning when I left El Bolson -- below freezing I would say. I had not been much in the mood for riding but pressed on after a hot breakfast at a gas station cafeteria and a coffee.

There was a climb out of El Bolson, one that lasted most of the day. The topography of this area is rather strange. El Bolson is situated at about 300 meters and nestled between some of the tallest mountains around. As I cycled out of the mountains, I was actually getting higher in elevation. The valley that El Bolson was situated was actually flowing to the Chilean side of the continent.

As I climbed out, I had my first taste of the Patagonia Desert. I could see far to the east as the road leveled some. Near the top of the climb, the road forked – one paved that went to the east, the other gravel that went to the south. Both went to Esquel, but the gravel road was about 20 miles longer. I took the paved route. It stayed in the desert the whole time. I later wished I had taken the gravel road, as I believe it went back into the Andes. (See photo 2196, 2198, 2200, 2201, and 2202)

One other thing to note here is I read in the guidebook that a ranch, owned by Butch Cassidy, who lived there with The Sundance Kid and Etta Place, from 1901 to 1905 was on the highway that I took. I had been anxious to stop and take a look. If it was marked, I had not noticed it. However, the route hardly seemed like the terrain of a ranch owned by the two. I had concluded that it was probably was on the other route since it went through the mountains. Oh well.

I ran into two Europeans cycling north – a man from Belgium named Paul Henri and a woman from France named Gelica. They left Ushuaia on the 10th of February. It had warmed to be a beautiful day. All of us were wearing shorts. They had told me that they had been riding in rain and snow earlier. (See photo 2197)

Later I stopped at the only services that I would come across on this branch of the road. It was a gas station that had been off the road wedged in between some cliffs to shelter in from the possible wind. When I walked in, there was not much in their store. The shelves and refrigerators were only about a third full. For food, there were only two bags of dust-covered potato chips. Most of the shelves had household goods on them. In the refrigerators, there were only two cans of pop – one soda water and one sprite. Mainly, however, the shelves and fridge were loaded with alcohol and beer. I had a dust-covered bag of chips and a soda water.

I camped a few miles down the road in some trees near a clear stream, which came out of the snow-covered mountains near to the west. There was little to no wind for most of the day and all of the night. (See photo 2199)

Monday, April 01, 2002 – Day 291 – Hotel -- Esquel, Chubute Argentina – cycled 49 miles / 78 km

Today was an uneventful ride as the desert continued for the entire ride. There were no services, no towns to stop. The traffic, although sparse, would be in bunches that would come fast and furious – some over 100 mph. Since there was no shoulder, I felt a little uncomfortable. More than once, a car would pass me while another car was passing it. Not a safe situation. One side mirror came inches from hitting me. When one rides a bike and there is a wind, it is really hard to hear cars coming from behind.

Toward the end of the day, a large valley opened up from the west, where Esquel was located. As the highway began to turn to that direction, the winds picked up. It picked up so much at times it pulled me across the road. I now know what the Patagonia Winds are like. As the road turned to face the wind head on, I slowed to less than 7 mph and it took me close to 2 hours to complete the last 15 miles. (See photos 2204, 2205, and 2206)

The wind died a few miles from the town. I know now why these towns are located where they are. The mountains must be situated creating pockets of wind free areas. The early Welsh settlers in this area must have discovered this long ago.

Now that the Easter holiday is over, this town is a ghost town. Hotel prices have dropped. I have a very nice clean modern hotel room with double bed, cable TV, private bathroom for the equivalent of $10. Most of the stores and restaurants are closed. Do not know if the Monday after Easter is a holiday here or if they are closed for the season. (See photo 2207)

Tomorrow I head for Chile through the mountains.