Erich’s Journal -- Leg 05 – California – Klammath, California, USA, to Yuma, Arizona, USA – August 12 to September 8, 2001 – 28 Days.

Sunday, August 12, 2001 – Day 59 – Campground – Klammath, California, USA – cycled 59 miles / 94 km (See Northern California Map)

 

Today we entered California.  (See photo 0416) A side trip took us into Jedidiah Smith Redwood Park, bypassing Crescent City.  We came out on a dirt road that was loaded with some spectacular Redwood trees.  We had noticed Redwoods earlier but none of significant size.  The next week or so should be spectacular. (See photo 0418)

 

Along the way, we passed by a spot that had a cliff overlooking a river with a deep part.  Brian had thoughts of jumping off this cliff that was probably 40 to 50 feet above the water.  After a half-hour or so of building up the courage, he jumped. (See photos 0419, 0420, 0421 and 0422). 

 

There are some interesting things about Redwoods.  They are the tallest trees in the world, reaching up to 367 feet.  They live up to 2000 years.  Their bark can get up to 12 inches thick; their base up to 22 feet in diameter.  The hardest part to believe is that 96% of them have been harvested.  The next few days should bring us in to the heart of the remaining trees. (See pics 0423, 0424, 0425, 0426, 0427, 0428 and 0429)

 

 

Monday, August 13, 2001 – Day 60 – Campground – Fortuna, California, USA – cycled 83 miles / 134 km

 

Today was the most “Urban” day of riding that we’ve come across.  Also it was one where we’ve been pushing to get through.  The 101 highway has become like an interstate making the ride much less enjoyable.  In fact I’d have to say it is nerve racking.

 

The morning didn’t start out that way because we had detoured off on the “Newton B. Drury Parkway” from Kammath to Orick.  The redwoods were plentiful on this route.  As we came closer to Arcata and Eureka, the traffic thickened. (See photos 0430, 0431, 0432, 0433, 0434, 0435, 0436, 0437 and 0438)

 

 

Tuesday, August 14, 2001 – Day 61 – Campground – Piercy (Richardson Grove), California, USA – cycled 60 miles / 96 km

 

Yesterday we left Jeremiah in Arcata.  He had been biking with us since Sunset Beach but decided to stop and get his bike worked on.  Brian & I then biked alone, the first in some time, until we reached Fortuna where we had come across Rob, whom we had met in Humbug State Park 3 days earlier.

 

We had stayed in a RV park that was nice because it had a hot tub.  We took advantage of it.

 

Today, Rob joined us after a huge breakfast at Dennys.  Now normally you might ask… “What’s with this obsession with food?”  Well when cycling, one can never take in enough calories.   When you combine that with the cost of eating out, it is not an easy task.  Well we each ordered 2 - $2.99 Grand Slam Breakfasts (consisting of 4 pancakes, 4 eggs, 4 sausages, 4 strips of bacon, and 4 pieces of toast per person).  Best deal of the trip.  When the waitress brought the food (on at least 9 plates), we could do nothing but laugh.

 

After about 15 miles along the 101, we rode on a parallel route called Avenue of the Giants.  It was quieter, less traffic and smaller towns to go through.  And again, we were riding through some huge redwoods. (See photos 0439, 0440, 0441, 0442, 0443, 0444, 0445, 0446, 0447, 0448, 0449, 0450, 0451 and 0452)

 

Now for the first time, we are camping in the Redwood, away from the coast, without rain or fog.  We have a clear sky.  It feels kid of good being in a relatively dry climate.

 

I realize today that we are soon ready for a break.  The bike needs some work but we are trying to work things out with some days off with my family down south in Dana Point.  My sister Fairy plans on driving up with her two kids, Jeremy and Jesse, to San Luis Obispo in 7 days.

 

Marc also plans to cycle up to meet with us from Ventura.

 

 

Wednesday, August 15, 2001 – Day 62 – Campground – Russian Gulch State Park, California, USA – cycled 69 miles / 111 km

 

It was scenic day again today.  We traveled along the South fork of the Eel River through some Redwood Groves to the town of Leggett.  (see photos 0453, 0454, 0455, 0456, 0457 and 0458)  We then switched over to California Highway 1.  After a short break we climbed up to a 1900-ft summit.  It was getting rather warm (80’s) which we had not been used to until yesterday.  After the climb, we dropped back down to the coast, to the fog, and cooler temperatures.  This coastline is so beautiful.  (See photo 0459)

 

We stopped for a while is Fort Bragg.  Brian had been having flat problems and I am guessing he is getting frustrated with it.  He bought a new set of road tires at a bike shop, so we are hoping it takes care of the problem.  He has not had much luck since he bought them in Whitehorse and Smithers, but I guess 3000 miles is about time to replace them.  I’ve been quite fortunate with the flats but I am having trouble keeping my tires seated right.  There always seems to be a wobble in it.  I figure I will try to get them to last until Dana Point, CA. (see photos 0460, 0461 and 0462)

 

After buying some groceries, we cycled to Russian Gulch State Park, just a few miles north of Mendocino. (See photos 0463, 0464, 0465 and 0466)

 

 

Thursday, August 16, 2001 – Day 63 – Campground – Stillwater County Park, California, USA – cycled 75 miles / 121 km

 

It has been a beautiful ride.  (See photos 0467, 0468, 0469, 0470 and 0474)

 

We feel as though we have a fan club.  Word seems to be getting out about our trip.  After a great coastal ride with the first tail wind we’ve seen in over a week, we rode into Stillwater County Park.  Several children who were staying there were bombarding us with questions about our trip.  We had never seen so many people in one trip so enthusiastic about our ride.  They asked so many questions—including some direct ones that most would not consider, such as “How are you getting along?”  “How could you handle the rain and weather?”  “How do you deal with sleeping in a tent for so long?”  The question that made me laugh was “How did you get here from Alaska?  Did they build a bridge or something?”  We also ran into a man who was interested in making a donation.  He was going to check out the web site for more information.  It was truly a remarkable day.

 

Tomorrow we cycle through Fort Ross.  A topic of discussion for Alaskan School children might be what is the significance of this small California community to Alaska? (See photos 0471, 0472 and 0473)

 

Rob and Jeremiah have been cycling with us for a few days now.  Rob since Fortuna, Jeremiah since Humbug.  It is great to have these two riding companions to give variety to our cycling days.  Meeting new people enriches ones life in more ways that you can imagine.

 

 

Friday, August 17, 2001 – Day 64 – Campground – Samuel P. Taylor State Park, California, USA – cycled 68 miles / 109 km (See Central California Map)

 

 

Saturday, August 18, 2001 – Day 65 – Hotel – Campground – Montara, California, USA – cycled 54 miles / 87 km

 

Today we entered San Francisco and crossed the Golden Gate Bridge.  I’ve dreamed about doing this for years.  Since I was last here in 1996.  Back then we chose to ride in a car through San Francisco.  Today, thought we were guided through by come cyclists that we had met a few days earlier at Stillwater Park.  Mike and Joanie had been completing a loop, where they had gone Northeast from San Francisco, then west to the coast and now south along the coast as we are doing.

 

We rode though approximately 20 miles of city before we hit the bridge—through communities such as Fairfax, Mill Valley – then eventually Sausalito.  (see photos 0475, 0476, 0477 and 0478)

 

Riding across the bride was not a unique experience. There were hundreds of cyclists (and pedestrians) on the Bridge.  We were on the Ocean side of the bridge.  On certain days of the week we would have been on the bay side.  Most of the other cyclists were tourists who had rented bikes for the day. (See pics 0479, 0480, 0481, 0482, 0483, 0484, 0485, 0486, 0487, 0488, 0489 and 0490)

 

After we cycled across which took a while due to our frequent photo opportunities, we cycled through parts of San Francisco until we reached the beach.  Mike had shown us the homes of Robin Williams, the actor and Chris Isaac, the signer.  Our day ended with a little frustration due to the fact that we couldn’t reach our destination of Half Moon bay campground.  Just before dark we did make it to an International Youth Hostel in Montara.  The sign out front said it was full, but we had heard that they never turn down cyclists passing through.  This was the case.  For $17 apiece, we were given a nice room to ourselves.  Jeremiah, we left in Samuel Taylor Park, so it was just the tree of us, Rob, Brian and myself.  The Youth Hostel was on old lighthouse overlooking the coast. It was quite beautiful as we had a rare opportunity to see the bay area with no fog. (See photos 0491, 0492, 0493 and 0494)

 

Tomorrow we head for Santa Cruz.

 

 

Sunday, August 19, 2001 – Day 66 – Campground – Santa Cruz, California, USA – cycled 63 miles / 102 km

 

(see photos 0495 and 0496)

 

 

Monday, August 20, 2001 – Day 67 – Campground – Big Sur, California, USA – cycled 74 miles / 119 km

 

A break is definitely needed.  Tempers are short, the miles seem long, and thee terrain seem dull and boring today.  The first half of today, we traveled against a strong headwind into a rural, yet highly congested area.  A huge power plant could be seen from miles away.  Pollution combined with storm clouds dominated the skyline.  Litter along the highways was strung along for miles.  There was plenty farmland with migrant workers.  The traffic was thick. (see photos 0497 and 0498)

 

We became lost as we traveled though Monterrey.

 

The only god part of today was after we passed Carmel and started cruising along the coast again.  The 20-mph tailwind pushed us along the last 24 miles.  (See photos 0499, 0500, and 0501) The Big Sur coastal area is very beautiful.  Quite the contrast of Monterrey Bay area we rode though earlier.  These winds kept a cold cloudy overcast in the bay that spun around such that the typical summer NW – SE winds were witched around giving us a strong headwind.  It was the say the least demoralizing.

 

 

Tuesday, August 21, 2001 – Day 68 – Campground – San Simeon State Park, California – cycled 68 miles / 109 km

 

The hiker/biker campsites in California are the best deals for a cyclist.  For $1.00 a hiker or biker (someone without a motorized vehicle) can camp and have an available hot shower.  Granted it is a shared or communal campsite, but a deal non-the less.  Plus the shared campsite allows one to meet other people.  The past few days we have run across two cyclists, Larry and Tom, who have been in the same sites as we have.  Currently we have been traveling with Rob now for 8 days, but met in camp 2 days prior to that.  Earlier we had traveled with Jeremiah for 9 days until San Francisco.  In Oregon, we traveled with Mike, Becky, Cathy, and Ian for 4 days.  Thee connections and experiences we had were both enriching and memorable.  It adds to the adventure.

 

We finally got word from Dell about our laptop.  Basically the word is “Adios” Perhaps I should elaborate.  In Pemberton, B.C. nearly 4 weeks ago, a liter bottle of open coke was knocked over the keyboard f the laptop by the moving handlebars of a bike that shifted.  It was unnoticed for about 30 seconds.  We wiped off it the best we could.  Long story short.  It did not turn on.  According to my friend Dave in Aniak: It had been “Kuballized!”  We shipped it to Dell to get it fixed.  They wanted roughly $1700 for the job – A bit steep but acceptable considering our need.  But at the same time, we sought out some sponsorship.  The repair center at Dell assured us verbally that they would sit still with computer until they heard the outcome of the sponsorship request.  Then we were to give them our decision in whether we were going to get it fixed.

 

Well not only did they not wish to sponsor us, they shipped the broken computer back to us at our expense.  They would not fix it, even though we were willing to pay for it.  What a pain to deal with when we are on the road.  And now we sit for 4 weeks still without a computer.  All I can say is “Kids—don’t try this at home!  Leave the pop in the kitchen”

 

Brian now has been experiencing problems with his bearings on his trailer wheel as I was about 1 month ago.  Rob, who knows some things about bearings, took it apart on the side of the highway.  Using grease from our bicycle chains, we managed to put it back together again.  I think wit well last until we get to a bike shop or the B.O.B. trailer factory in San Luis Obispo tomorrow.  Thee problem started after his wheel fell through a grate along the street the other day. (See photos 0502, 0503 and 0504)

 

 

Wednesday, August 22, 2001   -- Day 69 – Campground – Pismo Beach, California, USA – cycled 51 miles / 81 km

 

We had a positive today – one that really made us feel good about the trip and what we were doing.  Today we visited the BOB factory.  (See photos 0505 and 0506)  This is the place where our trailers were made.  There we met one of the owners – Roger, who had us bring our trailers in to be fixed up.  Brian had been keeping in contact with him via email for some sponsorship since before the trip.  Roger tore apart our bearings and replaced them.  He also replaced the pins that hold the BOB trailer to the frame.  He also gave us some spare bearings & tubes to carry with us for the remainder of the journey.  The last treat were some free t-shirts with their company logo.  Check them out at www.bobgear.com

 

Finally after dealing with dell & REI, we finally got to work with a company who seemed genuinely concerned with their product and a company who was genuinely concerned with our trip.  One of the things I didn’t mention before was that were testing a prototype waterproof bag for them.  One of the reasons we went through Mt. Vernon, WA was to pick them up at the Culter’s residence where =they were to be shipped.  After 1500 more miles we will ship them back to BOB so that they can study the wear and tear of the bag.

 

Our day took us along the coast some in the morning we had nice breakfast in Cabria.  After 20 miles we cycled in to San Luis Obispo, where the BOB company is located.  After we cycled in to Pismo Beach, where we thought was going to be a nice place to camp.  One of the reasons we say “thought” was because shortly after we arrived we realized that the hiker / biker campsite was also a home for some homeless people.  We thought something was up when we opened up the food box (normally to keep food locked up from the animals) and noticed that it was full of old clothes and sleeping bags.  Just before sundown… They started to show up.  A woman, a man and a younger man.  Shortly after, a ranger showed up to chase them away.  The woman and the man left, but the younger man pleaded with the ranger to let him stay.  The ranger had explained that one could only use the campground for two nights in a row.  After that he had to leave. It was rather comical to watch.  After some pleading the ranger let him stay.  The young man said his name was Aaron (he spelled it out to the ranger) but wanted to go by his alias “Jack Williams”

 

He had apparently been dealing drugs, as there was some sort of financial transaction taking place between him and another young man in a car.  Some cash and a sleeping bag were exchanged.  Rob, who I’ve found to be quite direct at times, go in to a discussion with him later.  We discovered that the three transients basically live at the State Park.  For food they raid people’s coolers at night.  Needless to say, that night we slept with our food and gear in our tents.  Our bikes were also secure.  A bizarre night we had at Pismo Beach.

 

 

Thursday, August 23, 2001 – Day 70 – Campground – Gaviota State Park, California, USA – cycled 67 miles / 107 km

 

We had a leisurely ride today along highway 1 though the interior as we passed though farm country with many migrant workers.  It was a very warm day with two 1000-foot climbs.

 

One of the towns we passed though was Guadalupe.  The town, although run down, was a town that looked like it probably did 50 years ago.  It did not fit the expensive southern California towns we had encountered.  We stopped in a café that served Mexican food.  It looked and felt like a 50’s diner, but had a southwest flair to it.  It was the best Chorizo and Eggs I’ve had in years. (See photo 0507)

 

An interesting thing we discovered about this sleepy little diner was that President George Bush had stopped there to eat during his campaigning last year.

 

Later that day we met Marc at Goviota State Park north of Santa Barbara about 30 miles.  Marc, who cycled with us from Prudhoe Bay to Whitehorse, lives in Ventura so joined us for the evening as he cycled from home.  My sister, Fairy and her two children Jeremy and Jessica, were driving on route to camp with us.

 

Unfortunately it was not a nice campground due to the winds that constantly rip through the valley it was located in.  It may have been worse than usual as well, as the gusts were up to 50 mph and the sand on the beach would blow.

 

I called her and suggested she get a motel.  We stayed for the night, since it had already been starting to get dark.

 

It was a miserable night as it was impossible to keep the sand and grit out of the tent.  My poles were bent in the morning.  Brian and Marc chose to sleep up against the restroom walls to keep out of thee wind. (See photos 0508, 0509, 0510, 0511 and 0512)

 

The next morning the winds had calmed a little but were still unpleasant.  My sister and her family met us.  We loaded our trailers and gear up in her vehicle so that we could travel light for a few days.

 

As we were getting ready to leave, a campground host named “Jim” approached and proceeded to yell at us.  Apparently we had not camped in the hiker / biker site.  My sister, who had been there temporarily to load our gear, had been parked illegally.  Jim definitely let us know that we were not supposed to be where we were and threatened us with fines, definitely giving us the perceptions that we were not good enough to be in the regular campgrounds.  All I can say is we went where we were directed the night before.  We had not been treated this rudely in our 70 days on the road.

 

This was definitely our worst camping experience.

 

 

Friday, August 24, 2001 – Day 71 – Campground – Malibu, California, USA – cycled 94 miles / 151 km (See Southern California Map)

 

 

Saturday, August 25, 2001 – Day 72 – Residence -- Dana Point, California, USA – cycled 105 miles / 168 km

 

The past few days have been light and fast as we biked through some of the most populated areas of the West Coast.  Thanks to my sister’s vehicle, Rob, Brian and I traveled light.

 

After we left Goviata, Marc, Rob, Brian and I proceeded to Santa Barbara.  The cruising was a brisk 18-mph as opposed to 12 when we are loaded down.  We took the bike route through Santa Barbara that also took us through a very wealthy beach subdivision known as Hope Ranch.  My sister drove behind us as we cycled.

 

For Lunch we met at Sambos, a restaurant along the coast in the main part of town.  Our group was rather large – quite the fun. (See photos 0513 and 0514)

 

Later we biked down to Ventura noticing some dolphins along the way.  Our route took us to Oxnard, where we said good bye to Marc. (See photos 0515 and 0516)

 

That night we camped just north of Malibu in Sycamore Canyon State Park.  My sister, after talking to the ranger, was able to join us in the hiker / biker site.

 

The next morning, Brian and I set across to tackle the long voyage across Los Angeles to Orange County.  Although the beach areas were nice, I did not appreciate large population, the pollution, and the traffic.  We said good bye to Rob in Santa Monica.  Los Angeles was his destination.  He had been on route for nearly 2 months.  We continued on through more beach towns, then ugly Long Beach area, and then more beach towns.  (See photos 0517, 0518, 0519, 0520, 0521, 0522 and 0523)

 

We biked 94 miles on Friday and 105 miles on Saturday.  Fairy, her husband Dan, Jeremy and Jessica, met us a few miles away from our destination.  Jeremy rode the last few miles with us on his bike. (See photos 0524, 0525 and 0526)

 

We were welcomed with banners, balloons and a cake at my sister’s home.  Brian’s parents also joined us later that evening.  They were flying in from Anchorage. (See photos 0527, 0528, 0529 and 0530)

 

 

Wednesday, September 5, 2001 – Day 83 -- Residence -- Bonita, California, USA – cycled 85 miles / 136 km

 

Today was our first day back on the road after taking 10 days off.  It was a little hard to get going.  The knees especially hurt.

 

We traveled the coast through the town of San Clemente.  Then we entered the Marine Camp Pendleton. (See photos 0533, 0534, 0535, 0536, 0537, 0538 and 0539) We then went through the towns of Oceanside, Carlsbad, La Jolla, then on through San Diego. (See photos 0539, 0540, 0541, 0542, 0543, 0544, and 0545)

 

Our bikes seem like new since most everything was replaced.  The handlebars, peddles, derailleur, frame, and one tire are pretty much the same.  All else is new.  But like most new bikes, we need to work out the bugs.  I am already noticing my chain needs adjusting.

 

Brian’s Aunt Peri and her husband Dale welcomed us.  They have two daughters, Tyler and Devon.  They fed us spaghetti for dinner and gave us some nice warm beds to sleep in. 

 

Tomorrow we will do one of our first presentations.  We are to speak at the local elementary schools here in Bonita (suburb of San Diego east of National City).

 

 

Thursday, September 06, 2001 – Day 84 – Campground – Portrero, California, USA – cycled 36 miles / 58 km

 

Our presentation went well.  We spoke at the Valley Vista Elementary School.  We spoke to the 6th grade class.  The children there were great.  They had many questions and were quite interested in our project.  We discussed many parts of the trip, such as doing the haul road and having to haul our own food.  Brian even talked about his ordeal at Gaviota State Park where he slept under the sink up against the restroom.  There were other adults as well, including the principal who was from El Salvador.  One of the students accessed our website on the computer so many kids were interested in that as well.  The presentation ended when we took some group photos with our bikes outside in front of the classroom. (See photos 0546, 0547, 0548, 0549, 0550, 0551, 0552, 0553, 0554 and 0555)

 

The ride today took us along a local road (Otay Lake Road) to Hwy 94.  We didn’t gain a great deal of distance today, but we climbed some (net gain of 2300 ft).  We are now in our closest camp to the Mexican border, which is about 3 miles away.  We are staying in an RV Park in the little unincorporated community called Potrero.  Although it was warmer today, it is nothing compared to the heat that we will experience in the coming days.

 

We quit a little early today primarily because we wanted some down time and really didn’t get any yesterday.  Also we want to get up at the crack of dawn tomorrow to beat the heat.

 

Tomorrow we climb another 1500 feet or so before dropping to well below sea level.

 

 

Friday, September 7, 2001 – Day 85 – Hotel – El Centro, California, USA – cycled 76 miles / 123 km

 

Another change in our routine has occurred.  We have definitely left the cool and misty coastline of Washington, Oregon and California.  We have now entered the desert.

 

Our first event was to cross over a mountain range that separated the coast from the desert.  We woke up in Potrero very cold.  In fact it was colder than all of our mornings since British Columbia.  It had to have been a few degrees above freezing.  I wanted some gloves on my hands, believe me.  (See photos 0556 and 0557)

 

We left at 6:30 a.m.  When the sun rose over the mountains, the temperature began to rise.  After many hills and small Mexican border towns, we climbed on to Interstate 8 and began the long windy descent down into the Imperial Valley.  At the bottom, which was about 60 feet below sea level, the temperature was about 105 degrees.  So I am guessing we had about a 70-degree difference in temperature in the same day.  (See photos 0558, 0559, 0560, 0561, 0562 and 0563) 

 

The last 30 miles that day to El Centro, was painful.  We cycled along a frontage road, through the towns of Coyote Wells (no services), Plaster City (no services) and Seely (finally services).  We stopped at a bar that did not seem opened at first.  But after trying the door, I walked in.  Brian was behind a mile or so.  (See photo 0564)

 

An old Hispanic man served us some cokes and water.  Shortly after, his waitress came on shift and he left.  She was very pleasant to talk to and very helpful.  She did not charge us for the water as the old man was going to.  In fact, she filled our camelbacks and water bottle with ice.  Let me tell you.  It was the best gift we could have had.  We had been feeling the signs of heat exhaustion.  It felt like a dream – walking into a dusty cantina out in the Mexican desert. 

 

We made it about 7 miles more to El Centro and checked in the Super 8 Motel.  It was about 4:00 p.m.  Cold showers were a must.  We were asleep by 8:00 p.m.

 

 

 

Saturday, September 8, 2001 – Day 86 – Residence – Yuma, Arizona, USA – cycled 79 miles / 126 km

 

This morning we tried the same strategy.  We were on the road by 6:30 a.m.  This time we made it across more dessert to Yuma by noon escaping the heat. 

 

We traveled just a few miles above the Mexican border and we watched many border patrol agents work.  Some were parked and watched.  Others were pulling people over.  Some were raking the sand so they could be checked later for footprints.  Times have changed since I’ve lived on the border. (See photos 0565, 0566, 0567, 0568 and 0569)

 

We spent the afternoon in a Mexican food restaurant, then in the library checking the Internet.  We met a teacher out front that was very interested in what we were doing.  He was so much so interested that he called the local television station (channel 11) and they came down and interviewed us while we were at the library.  (See photos 0570, 0571 and 0572)

 

That afternoon we bike a few miles east of Yuma to the home of Fred and Diane Norris.  Our hosts were extended family of Brians (His Aunt’s Mother’s Cousin).   It was our oasis in the desert. (See photo 0573)

 

I would like to say that we have experienced so many positive people today.  More people have said so many positive things to us and helped us out more than any other day that I remember.  I guess it is that desert hospitality.